Are you starting your 3D printing journey? Choosing the perfect filament or resin is the key to turning your projects into masterpieces! With a plethora of options available, we're thrilled to share some game-changing tips and tricks with you.
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By the end of this 3D printing guide, you'll be armed with all the knowledge about two of the best 3D printing materials out there: PLA vs PETG. Get ready with this guide for a deep dive into their characteristics, printing properties, techniques, subtypes, and how to pick the best one for your unique project!
PLA (Polylactic Acid) and PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol)! These materials bring their own flair to the 3D printing scene, loved by both beginners and experts alike for their ease of use.
Picture your creations coming to life with these versatile filaments, turning your ideas into reality!
While PLA and PETG may seem similar at first glance, their differences are nothing short of fascinating! What are they used for, you ask? How do they stand apart? And most importantly, when should you choose one over the other? We've done the legwork, carefully examining PLA and PETG to help you uncover answers to these burning questions and more!
Hold tight as we unravel the magic behind these materials, offering insights that will elevate your 3D printing game. Are you ready to unleash your creativity and dive into the extraordinary world of PLA and PETG? Let the 3D printing adventure begin!
This guide in 1 minuteThis guide introduces beginners to the world of 3D printing, focusing on the choice between PLA and PETG filaments. PLA, derived from natural sources, is eco-friendly and biodegradable. PETG, born from PET with glycol infusion, offers enhanced strength and durability, making it 100% recyclable. Both filaments are versatile but differ in characteristics, applications, and printing requirements.
PLA provides a smooth, glossy finish suitable for prototypes, while PETG offers superior strength and flexibility, making it ideal for functional parts. Printing with PLA is user-friendly due to lower temperatures, while PETG requires higher temperatures and a heated bed. Both share concerns about clogging printer heads.
Post-processing involves sanding, painting, and smoothing. PLA is generally easier to post-process due to its lower melting point. Applications vary; PLA suits prototypes and artistic creations, while PETG is preferred for durable, functional parts exposed to demanding conditions. PLA is more cost-effective, but PETG's enhanced properties contribute to a slightly higher price.
Recommendations depend on specific needs. If eco-friendliness and lower cost matter, choose PLA; for strength and durability, opt for PETG. The guide concludes that there's no one-size-fits-all answer in the PLA vs PETG debate. Users should experiment with both to understand their unique characteristics and make informed decisions based on their 3D printing needs.
One of the primary distinctions between PLA vs PETG is, of course, how the two materials are manufactured.
PLA - Nature's 3D Printing Wonder
First up, meet PLA, the champion of 3D printing! Sourced from renewable and natural raw ingredients like corn, cassava, sugarcane or beet pulp! PLA sets itself apart with its eco-friendly badge. PLA goes the extra mile by being biodegradable under specific conditions.
PETG - The Thermoplastic Powerhouse
Born from the thermoplastic giant PET, what makes PETG stand out? It's the infusion of glycol (G) at the molecular level, elevating its strength and durability compared to plain PET. While PETG proudly claims its spot as a 100% recyclable material, it's important to note that it stems from an oil-based polymer.
PLA - Aesthetic Elegance in Every Layer Seeking a visual masterpiece for your prototypes or display items? Look no further than PLA, the maestro of a smooth and glossy finish that captivates the eye. Marvel at its polished appearance, perfect for projects where aesthetics take centre stage. However, tread carefully if functionality is your muse, as PLA, with its lower heat resistance and brittleness, may not dance to the tune of robust functionality.
Easy to print
Brittle
Affordable
Low resistance to higher temperatures
Great for prototpying
Sensitive to moisture
PETG - The Versatile Virtuoso Enter PETG, the versatile virtuoso of the 3D printing stage! Striking the perfect chord between strength and flexibility, PETG emerges as a dynamic alternative to PLA. Picture this: resilience against water, chemicals, and fatigue, making PETG the go-to option for durability without compromising flexibility. It's the love child of ABS and PLA, showcasing superior strength (without reaching ABS extremes) and enhanced flexibility (without sacrificing too much like PLA). PETG steals the spotlight, addressing the shortcomings of both its filament predecessors.
Notably stiffer than PLA, PETG claims its territory, especially in the industrial arena. But that's not all—PETG can flex its muscles even more with carbon fibre reinforcement, elevating its strength while donning a premium price tag. While PLA can also dabble in carbon fibre reinforcements, PETG takes the crown, showcasing its inherent strength rooted in polymer dynamics. PETG stands tall in crafting components that dance between flexibility and shock resistance, creating a symphony of possibilities.
Strong and durable
Less colors and blends available
Higher UV resistance
Prone to warping and cracking
Resistant to heat and chemicals
Difficult to post process
When it comes to facing the elements, PETG and PLA stand side by side, both lacking a UV protection halo. Yet, when we are looking at the question of PLA vs PETG, PETG shines a bit brighter against the onslaught of heat and UV exposure, standing resilient for extended periods. Safety takes centre stage with PETG and PLA, outclassing potential health hazards posed by ABS. While non-poisonous, a prudent approach is advised, considering the uncertainty surrounding the emission of fumes from any material.
Printing with PLA is favoured for its low printing temperature, typically ranging from 200-220°C. This makes PLA a user-friendly choice, as it adheres well to various bed surfaces, eliminating the necessity for a heated bed. Thanks to its low thermal expansion, warping issues are minimized, making PLA an excellent option for beginners. On the contrary, PETG demands a higher printing temperature, typically falling between 220-250°C. To prevent warping, a heated bed is recommended for PETG, and users should be mindful of ventilation, as PETG emits fumes during the printing process.
Digging deeper into technical aspects, both PLA and PETG share notable similarities. Both are renowned for their user-friendly printing characteristics. PLA stands out as one of the simplest materials for 3D printing, making it a go-to for beginners. This simplicity is largely attributed to its lower printing temperatures, not requiring a heated bed or a closed chamber. PLA's optimal extrusion temperature ranges between 190-220°C, notably lower than PETG.
PETG, while considered user-friendly, falls slightly behind PLA in terms of ease. It doesn't demand a closed chamber, contributing to its straightforward printing process. However, due to the higher temperature requirements, PETG necessitates a heated printing bed, potentially limiting printer options for some users. Printing with PETG typically requires higher temperatures, ranging from 220-260°C, with the heating bed temperature ideally set between 75 and 90°C. It's worth noting that starting to print with PETG may pose initial challenges, unlike the smooth initiation with PLA. Yet, with proper settings, PETG is recognized for its easy extrusion and high thermal stability.
Both materials share a common concern regarding clogging printer heads due to their high viscosity. However, it's crucial to recognize that this challenge is not unique to PLA vs PETG, as many polymers face similar issues. Users shouldn't see it as a negative reflection on either material.
Nozzle size: ≥ 0.1mm
Layer height: ≥ 0.05mm
Enclosure needed: No
Print temp: ± 200 – 220° C
Fan speed: 50-100%
Experience level: Beginner
Heat bed: ± 50 – 60° C
Adhesive: EasyFil Nr. I
Nozzle size: ≥ 0.15mm
Layer height: ≥ 0.05mm
Enclosure needed: No
Print temp: ± 230 – 245° C
Fan speed: 10-25%
Experience level: Beginner
Heat bed: ± 80 – 90° C
Adhesive: EasyFil Nr. I
Post-processing is an essential aspect of 3D printing, and both PLA vs PETG can be sanded, painted, or smoothed with various techniques. However, PLA is generally easier to post-process due to its lower melting point. PETG, being more heat-resistant, requires careful handling during sanding and smoothing to avoid overheating and deformation.
One significant distinction between PETG and PLA is that post-processing is easier. PLA offers a greater range of post-processing options and is often easier to implement. Support structures, on the other hand, might be difficult to remove from PETG due to the material's adhesive qualities. To be successful, support structures must be spaced apart from the real model by at least 0.5mm; else, the printed part's structure may be damaged.
Sanding, on the other hand, is an effective post-processing technique for both used to smooth the surface of an item, making it an extremely useful tool for people working with FDM procedures (which are utilized for both PETG and PLA filaments). This Technique is considered to be significantly easier with PETG, making it handy for anyone looking for a glossy finish (which PETG is also known for), but it is not difficult to perform with PLA. Plus, PLA offers more alternatives.
Another issue, particularly for those wishing to use printed parts as decoration or props, is that it's easy to paint PLA, but PETG doesn't allow for easy painting. PETG is noted for its ability to be transparent, which has its own benefits.
Finally, we want to mention the option of smoothing 3D prints with epoxy resins. Resins are a commonly used product that is made specifically for smoothing and finishing 3D printed models. It works generally by mixing two liquids and applying it evenly. After the curing time has passed, the model will have a glossy, smooth finish.
This method not only addresses imperfections but also brings out the intricate details of the printed object. It serves as a transformative step, taking a 3D print to a whole new level of professional-looking quality. The use of epoxy resins, opens up possibilities for achieving finishes that meet the highest aesthetic standards in the world of 3D printing.
The choice between PLA and PETG often depends on the intended application. PLA is excellent for simple prototype iterations, artistic creations, and objects that don't require high durability. PETG, on the other hand, is suitable for functional parts, mechanical components, and objects exposed to more demanding conditions. Its higher durability and resistance to heat and chemicals make it a preferred option for more durable prototypes, and engineering applications.
PLA and PETG applications overlap significantly. They are both employed in the food, medicinal, costume/prop production, and decorative components industries, but each material demonstrates its excellence in unique ways. For example, while considering PETG, the first application that comes to mind is the food business.
PET(G) is a substance used to produce water-resistant and durable containers, such as plastic bottles. Not to mention, PET(G) accounts for 18% of global plastic manufacturing, indicating that it is safe for contact with food. PETG has similar qualities, and it is FDA-approved.
The enhanced water resistance and superior heat resilience render qualities of PETG makes it an excellent choice for manufacturing various items. This characteristic makes PETG particularly well-suited for applications where exposure to water or elevated temperatures is a concern. On the other hand, PLA is also considered food-safe, although to a slightly lesser degree than PETG. While PLA has found application in the food industry, its lower water resistance compared to PETG may limit its suitability for certain food-related uses.
In terms of aesthetics, PLA outperforms PETG. As previously stated, PLA can be painted far more readily than PETG. Because the support structures are easily removed, more complicated, detailed pieces can be produced, making it ideal for ornamental elements and cosplay props.
Furthermore, one particularly intriguing aspect of PLA is that it is frequently used to simulate different materials. It can be used to generate hybrid filaments by combining PLA with other materials.
When it comes to cost, PLA is generally more affordable than PETG. The raw materials used in PLA production are readily available and cost-effective, contributing to its lower market price. PETG, with its enhanced properties and durability, tends to be slightly more expensive.
PLA is commonly assumed to be substantially cheaper than PETG, but this is not always the case.
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Something to keep in mind with both materials is that what causes the price to change is the quality of the filament; both materials can vary dramatically in quality, from low-grade filament intended for amateurs to semi-industrial materials. Also, any PLA or PETG filaments containing other components, like as carbon fiber, will be more expensive.
When looking for filament, compare PLA vs PETG based on your individual demands.
In the PLA vs PETG debate, there is no one-size-fits-all answer. Each filament has its strengths and weaknesses, making them suitable for different applications. By considering factors such as printing characteristics, properties, post-processing requirements, applications, and price, you can make an informed decision based on your specific 3D printing needs.
Whether you are a beginner or an experienced user, experimenting with both PLA and PETG will provide valuable insights into their capabilities and help you achieve successful 3D prints.
Hardly any other technical field has developed as rapidly in recent years as 3D printing. Especially in commercial, technological, industrial and scientific use, 3D technology has become indispensable. But 3D printers have long since arrived in private households and are more popular than ever. Public interest in 3D printing is growing rapidly, as is the variety of 3D printers for private use.
If you are reading this article, you are probably one of those people who are toying with the idea of getting such a device. If you have decided to buy a 3D printer or if you are at least considering it, you quickly realise that choosing from the many different devices is not that easy.
We want to show you what you have to consider if you want to buy a 3D printer and thus make your choice a little easier.
In order to really understand the following properties and differences, let's first briefly deal with the necessary basics and take a look at current printing technologies. We limit ourselves here to the two most popular techniques that are most used in the private sphere.
To keep it simple, we basically differentiate between FDM printers (filament printers) and resin printers (SLA / DLP / LCD).
FDM printing process
FDM (Fused Deposit Modeling) or FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) are 3D printing processes in which a filament in the form of a thermoplastic strand is heated in a print head and printed on a printing platform through a nozzle.
In this process, the selected model is built up layer by layer. When talking about 3D printers, in most cases an FDM printer is meant.
What is the filament in FDM printing?
The so-called filament is a material that is available wound on a spool and processed in the FDM printer. There are a number of different filament materials (PLA, PETG, ABS, nylon, etc.), which differ significantly in their properties. Filaments are also available in various diameters and numerous colours.
Special filaments for special models
There are now numerous special materials in which wood, metal, carbon or stone have been processed.
If you want to buy a 3D printer, it is extremely important to find out which materials the desired printer can process and which diameter is required.
Advantages of FDM printing
Areas of application for FDM printing
Resin printing process (SLA / DLP / LCD)
Resin printing processes are further subdivided into SLA printing (stereolithography), DLP (digital light processing) and LCD technology. All variants are very similar, which is why we will only briefly discuss the differences:
In all cases, liquid, photosensitive resin is used.
In SLA printing, this resin is cured with a UV laser.
DLP printing uses a so-called DLP projector, which projects the print object or the layer to be printed onto a pixelated screen. Only the required area of the display is illuminated for each layer. As the name suggests, LCD technology uses an LCD screen and a UV light source.
Benefits of SLA / DLP / LCD printing
Areas of application for SLA / DLP / LCD printing
You should ask yourself these questions before buying
Now we've already learned a few basic facts about 3D printing. But before you blindly decide on the best device, you should still ask yourself these 4 basic questions:
1. What is your budget? / How much are you willing to spend?
If you want to buy a 3D printer, the budget also has an impact on the purchase. Think about how much you are willing to spend on a 3D printer. The price range is very wide in this industry, but there are numerous inexpensive models that are impressive.
Especially in the area of FDM printing, you get a decent set of basic equipment for little money. The running costs are also manageable with FDM printing: You can get good filaments in our shop for around 20-25 € / kg, for example.
For special materials such as wood, metal or flexible filaments, you have to lay down a little more. You will definitely get inexpensive but good basic equipment (printer and material) from 300-400 euros.
Resin printers are now also available inexpensively. You can find affordable entry-level models for less than 400 euros. Of course, as with FDM printing, there is no upper price limit for resin printers either.
If you decide on a resin printer, you should only take into account that in addition to the printer itself, you also need other devices for post-processing.
An inexpensive SLA printer including curing machine and material will cost you around 500-600 euros in our shop.
In contrast to filament printing, you have to expect higher running costs with resin printing. 1-litre bottles of the printing material start at around 30 euros. In the case of SLA printing, the resins often cannot be replaced with materials from other manufacturers and you are bound to one manufacturer. If you print with the DLP or LCD process, this is usually not a problem.
2. What do you want to print? What are your ideas?
The choice of the 3D printer depends a lot on what you want to print with it. For example, if you mainly want to print parts for your car or if you need heat- or weather-resistant models, the printer should also be designed to process the respective materials.
Depending on the purpose of the models, there are different requirements for the material and 3D printer, here are some examples:
3. What properties do you expect from your 3D printer?
Should it print particularly quickly, be very quiet or is it important to you to be able to print large models?
In addition to the intended use of the print models, there are also other properties that significantly differentiate 3D printers from one another:
To print a model, not only the 3D printer itself, but also a computer / laptop with USB connection and / or WLAN or an SD card is required to transfer the desired model to the printer.
3D printers can be purchased fully assembled or as a kit.
A 3D printer kit is usually cheaper than a finished, assembled device, which is why many customers choose it. The assembly can be challenging for a beginner, but it can also help to better understand the 3D printer and its spare parts.
If you decide on a fully assembled device, you don't have to worry about a correct assembly, you set up the 3D printer and can start printing straight away. If you want to be on the safe side as a beginner, it is advisable to use a fully assembled device. This costs a little more, but you can't go wrong and slowly approach the printer and its parts.
We mention the printing speed here, because for many people who want to buy a 3D printer, it is initially an apparently important comparison value for different products. At the same time, however, we would like to point out that it makes less sense to put the printing speed in the foreground when buying. Here's why:
First of all, it should be noted that the printing speed of an FDM printer does not only depend on the device itself, but also on factors such as the temperature of the printing nozzle, the material to be processed, the thickness of the filament, the layer thickness and the number of supports required.
In addition, there are other general factors that affect the speed of printing. This includes, for example, the orientation of the object and the amount of material to be printed. If you want to increase the printing speed, it can be helpful to change the height of the model by adjusting the orientation.
With resin printing, the printing speed depends on the light output of the printer and the properties of the material.
The print size is an important comparison factor in 3D printers, as it determines the maximum size of the printed model. The print volume is calculated in XYZ: X = width, Y = depth, Z = height.
If you don't want to print several small parts and then connect them together, you should use a larger 3D printer right away.
A direct-drive extruder is built into the hotend, the filament is pushed directly into the nozzle - all filament processing elements are in place in one place. In addition to “normal” filament, this is also suitable for processing special filament types.
The Bowden extruder is located on the frame of the 3D printer, which also has advantages (less weight on the print head = clean movements), but it is more suitable for processing standard filament types such as PLA.
If you would like to find out more about the differences between the two extruder variants, you can also find the article “Direct extruder vs. Bowden extruder - these are the differences” in our guide
If 3D printers are equipped with two extruders, different colours or materials can be used for the same print model during printing. A major advantage of dual extruders is the possibility of combining different materials, e.g. an additional, dissolvable material for support structures, in one print.
Since the layer height depends on the 3D printer used, it is one of the most elementary properties of 3D printers. It is the height of a single layer that the printer will use to build the model. Basically, the lower the layer height, the finer and smoother the surface of the 3D print will be. With commercially available 3D printers, the average layer height is 0.1 mm to 0.32 mm.
The layer height is not only dependent on the 3D printer used, but also on the software with which a model is sliced. Good 3D software nowadays has hardly any restrictions on the layer height.
The heating bed is a heatable print bed with which the processed plastic does not cool down as quickly. This avoids warping of the material and unwanted bulges. While some materials (e.g. ABS or PETG) require a heatable print bed, it is not absolutely necessary when printing PLA.
If you want to process different filaments, we think: A heating bed is nice to have!
4. Where do you plan to print?
You should also think about the location of your future printer. Ideally, you have a work room or workshop in which you can place your 3D printer. Although it is safe to use it in the living room with most materials, there are some factors that speak against it:
Depending on the size of the printer, you need enough space to accommodate the device itself, as well as the material and any tools. The printer should also be on a stable table so that it makes less noise.
As already mentioned, most printers create background noise. Even if many 3D printers have now achieved a very low level of noise, they cannot be completely ignored.
While 3D printing doesn't really create “dirt”, you can expect to have to remove support material from time to time or have to sand something. So it can happen that one or the other small material falls on the floor and does not end up in the trash can.
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