Hello this is Geordie and I wrote the "10 Tips and Tricks for Laser Cutting and Engraving" instructable. For close to 2 years I ran the laser cutter/engraver at my local maker space, ADX Portland and I continue to use their laser to make my own artwork and designs.
You will get efficient and thoughtful service from Tiper.
One of the most common questions I've received since posting the "Tips and Tricks" instructable, is people asking me for advice on buying their own laser. So I've decided to write a quick instructable about that.
Disclaimer:
I’ve only ever used one machine and that is the Epilog Helix laser at ADX Portland. So that is the only machine I can talk about directly. So rather than reviewing specific companies and machines this article is going to be more about what to look for and think about when buying a laser.
There are a lot of cheap imports, mostly from China, on the market. But lasers are complicated machines and they do break and need to be repaired. Make sure the company you buy from is reliable and offers good support for you and their machine after you buy it.
Here are some questions to think about:
How hard or easy is it to get replacement parts?
Do they have tech support?
How easy is it to get a question answered?
Do they have a good website?
Are there tutorials on how to use and/or fix the machine?
Can it be upgraded?
The two main issues I would focus on when it comes to picking a machine are the size of the bed and the power of the laser.
The machines bed size will determine how big a piece of material you can fit in the machine to cut or engrave. A bigger bed will allow you to cut or engrave larger pieces and even if your doing something small, like laser cut jewelry, a bigger bed will allow to cut out multiple pieces at once rather than one at a time. Also some machines have a fixed bed and some have a bed that can go up and down. A bed that goes up and down allows you to engrave different sized objects. The cutting depth doesn’t change but if you want to engrave a logo on a leather shoe rather than on a flat piece of leather, having a bed that you can lower to get the shoe in the machine is important.
The next issue is the power of the laser. The strength of the laser is measured in Watts. The more watts the more powerful the laser is. The laser, I used, started out with a 30 watt laser and was then upgraded to a 50 watt. The strength of the laser is most important for cutting. Remember the thickness of material that a laser can cut is determined by the focal point of the lens and not the power of the laser. So adding a more powerful laser won’t allow you to cut thicker material. But it will allow you to cut faster and more reliably. A weaker laser will mean having slow the laser down to be able to make good cut.
I would suggest getting the largest machine you can and starting with a weaker laser. A bigger bed will allow you to work on bigger designs or cut and engrave multiple pieces at once. You can upgrade the laser in it to a more powerful one later.
Hope this information helps out. If you can’t afford your own laser I would suggest looking for Maker space where you can use their laser or find a shop that will engrave and cut for you at a good price.
Geordie
Purchasing a CO2 laser cutter online can save money but carries significant risks if you don't know what to verify. This essential checklist reveals the 12 critical factors to inspect before clicking "buy" - potentially saving you thousands in hidden costs and headaches.
Verify actual manufacturer (not just "branded")
Check warranty length (quality tubes offer 8,000+ hours)
Confirm cooling requirements (air vs water-cooled)
Pro Tip: Request photos of the tube's manufacturer label
Frame material: Solid steel > aluminum extrusion
Gantry system: Look for industrial linear rails
Z-axis mechanism: Should have manual + automatic adjustment
Red Flag: Thin gauge metal that flexes under pressure
Stepper motors: Minimum NEMA 23 for 50W+ lasers
Driver quality: Look for DM542 or better
Belt/pulley system: GT2 or HTD timing belts preferred
Mirrors: Copper or molybdenum (not aluminum)
Lens: ZnSe with AR coating, confirm focal length
Nozzle: Brass with clean interior
Controller type: Ruida > TopWisdom > Leetro
Software compatibility: LightBurn support is ideal
Interface: Touchscreen vs basic LCD
Must have CE/UL certification
Proper voltage specifications for your country
The company is the world’s best Co2 Laser Cutter supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.
Quality power supply unit (not generic Chinese)
Included air pump specifications (≥60L/min)
Exhaust fan CFM rating
Fume extraction port size (4" minimum)
Basic toolkit (alignment tools, wrenches)
Spare parts (mirrors, lenses)
Starter materials for testing
Wooden crate vs cardboard
Insurance coverage amount
Who handles customs clearance?
Search "[Brand Name] problems" in forums
Check BBB complaints
Video call the warehouse
What's excluded (common gotchas):
Tube failure from improper cooling
Lens damage from debris
Software issues
Who pays return shipping?
Technical support hours/timezone
Response time guarantee
Available repair centers
Assuming "40W" means actual output
Reality: Many sellers exaggerate power ratings
Not verifying voltage compatibility
Result: Machines arrive needing expensive converters
Overlooking import duties
Shock: 15-25% extra cost on Chinese imports
Beliving "plug-and-play" claims
Truth: Most require professional calibration
Skipping payment protection
Risk: No recourse for DOA machines
Credit card with purchase protection
PayPal Goods & Services
Escrow service
Bank transfer (risky)
Factory test reports
Compliance certificates
Packing list with weights/dimensions
Consider:
Local dealers with online stores
Refurbished units from authorized centers
Auction liquidations of business equipment
If you want to learn more, please visit our website Co2 Laser Cutting Machine Manufacturer.
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