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10 Questions You Should to Know about 100%Cotton Wax Fabrics

Author: Lily

Aug. 18, 2025

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Tags: Textiles & Leather Products

African Wax Print Fabric: 10 Facts and 10 Myths - Dovetailed London

African wax print fabric is a captivating textile that has found its way into the hearts and wardrobes of people around the world. Known for its bold colours, intricate designs, and cultural significance, this fabric carries a rich history that has been woven into the tapestry of many African communities. However, like any beloved and enigmatic art form, African wax print fabric has collected its fair share of myths and misconceptions over the years. In this blog, we embark on a journey to dispel these myths and unveil the hidden truths about this remarkable fabric.

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Myth 1: There is Wax on African Wax Print Fabric

One of the most persistent myths is the belief that African wax print fabric contains wax. This misconception likely stems from the name "wax print." In reality, there is no actual wax on African wax print fabric.


Fact 1: No Wax, But a Dyeing Technique

African wax print fabric gets its name from the wax-resist dyeing technique used in its production. Instead of actual wax, a substance like resin or starch is applied to the fabric in specific patterns. These areas, where the wax-like substance is applied, resist the dye during the colouring process. Afterward, the fabric is treated to remove the wax-resist substance, revealing the brilliantly dyed patterns underneath. So, while wax plays a role in the creation of these fabrics, it is not present in the final product. The term "wax" refers to the dye-resist process, not the fabric itself, which is made from 100% soft cotton.


Myth 2: All African Wax Print Fabric is the Same

Another prevalent myth is the assumption that all African wax print fabric is uniform and lacks variation in quality, design, or origin.


Fact 2: A World of Diversity

African wax print fabric is as diverse as the continent itself. Various regions in Africa have developed their distinct styles, motifs, and colour palettes. For example, fabrics from West Africa, particularly Ghana, are celebrated for their bold geometric designs, while East African fabrics, such as those from Tanzania, often feature intricate and nature-inspired patterns. The level of craftsmanship also varies, with some fabrics being mass-produced and others meticulously handmade using traditional methods. Each piece of African wax print fabric is a testament to its region's heritage and storytelling traditions. So, there is no one-size-fits-all when it comes to these extraordinary textiles.


Myth 3: African Wax Print Fabric is Only for Clothing

There's a common misconception that African wax print fabric is exclusively meant for clothing, with no room for versatility.

Fact 3: Beyond Fashion

While African wax print fabric is frequently used in clothing, it's not limited to just apparel. Its vibrant patterns and colours can be applied to a broad range of items, including accessories, home decor, and various crafting projects. In addition to dresses, skirts, and head wraps, African wax print fabric can be used to create stylish bags, scarves, quilts, and upholstery. This fabric knows no bounds when it comes to creative applications.

Myth 4: African Wax Print Fabric is Not Durable

Some may wrongly believe that African wax print fabric lacks the durability needed for everyday use.


Fact 4: Sturdy and Resilient

African wax print fabric is crafted from 100% soft cotton, making it robust and capable of withstanding the rigours of daily life. This fabric is an excellent choice for creating long-lasting clothing and accessories, and it can even be utilised for upholstery and home decor projects. With proper care and maintenance, your African wax print fabric pieces can remain vibrant and beautiful for years to come.


Myth 5: African Wax Print Fabric is Exclusively for Africans

A common myth is that African wax print fabric is intended only for individuals of African descent.


Fact 5: A Global Fashion Phenomenon

African wax print fabric has transcended cultural borders to become a global fashion trend. People from diverse backgrounds admire the beauty and craftsmanship of these textiles. Designers and fashion enthusiasts from all over the world incorporate African wax print fabric into their creations. Its versatility, unique designs, and vibrant colours make it a cherished choice for fashion and style, irrespective of cultural background.

Take a loot at the ways you can incorporate your African Wax Print Fabric into diverse ways like the Claudette Wide Leg Trousers. Shop here.

Myth 6: African Wax Print Fabric is Always Expensive

A popular misconception is that African wax print fabric is expensive and beyond the reach of many. In fact,  Dovetailed invites you to take advantage of our fantastic selection of fabrics, with prices starting as low as £4 for fat quarters.


Fact 6: Affordable Options

While high-end African wax print fabrics designed by renowned fashion houses do exist, there are also more affordable options available to suit a variety of budgets. Mass-produced fabrics are often budget-friendly, making this stunning textile accessible to a wide range of individuals. The affordability of African wax print fabric has played a crucial role in its growing popularity in the fashion world.


Myth 7: African Wax Print Fabric is a Recent Trend

Some believe that African wax print fabric has only recently gained recognition and popularity.


Fact 7: Centuries of Heritage

African wax print fabric boasts a deep-rooted history that stretches back for centuries. As early as the 17th century, Dutch and English traders introduced printed textiles to West Africa. These textiles were then interwoven into African cultures and traditions, with designs often reflecting local folklore, proverbs, and social status. African wax print fabric is a testament to the enduring legacy of these textiles and the diverse cultures that have embraced them.


Myth 8: All African Wax Print Fabric is Ankara

There is a common myth that all African wax print fabrics are Ankara fabrics.  Among the diverse array of African wax print fabrics, Ankara stands out as one of the most well-known and cherished. Originating from West Africa, particularly Nigeria, Ankara fabrics possess a unique identity that has captured the global fashion stage. While often used interchangeably with the term "African wax print fabric," Ankara fabrics have their specific characteristics.


Fact 8: Ankara is a Subset

Ankara is a subset of African wax print fabrics. These fabrics are typically made from 100% soft cotton and are renowned for their vibrant, eye-catching colours and bold patterns. What distinguishes Ankara fabrics is their association with Nigerian culture, where they are an integral part of traditional and contemporary fashion. They are often characterised by intricate and nature-inspired designs, and they hold immense cultural significance. However, it's essential to understand that African wax print fabrics include a broader range of textiles, each with its distinct history and styles.

Myth 9: African Wax Fabrics Cannot Be Washed

There's a common misconception that African wax fabrics cannot be washed due to their vibrant colours and intricate patterns. However, the truth is that you can and should wash these fabrics to maintain their beauty. 



Fact 9: Caring for Vibrancy

You can place the fabric in a washing machine and launder them at temperatures of 30 or 40 degrees.  By following the right care instructions, you can preserve their vividness and extend their lifespan. Discover the proper ways to care for your African wax prints and enjoy their brilliance for years.

Myth 10: All African Wax Fabrics Are Machine-Printed

Many believe that African wax print fabrics are exclusively mass-produced using machines. However, the truth unveils the artistry of African craftsmen and women. These fabrics also feature hand-printed versions, where skilled artisans meticulously create unique designs using traditional techniques.

Fact 10: Handcrafted Excellence

Handcrafted African wax prints are cherished for their individuality and the cultural significance they carry.

Explore the exquisite African wax prints featured at Dovetailed (showcased by our owner, Adaku)

Explore the world of handcrafted excellence within African wax print fabrics here.

Whether you take joy in crafting personalised gifts or fashioning your own stylish garments, Dovetailed has something for everyone. 

Our exquisite selection of sewing patterns is designed to help you create the perfect dress for yourself or your loved ones, unleashing your creative spirit. Shop here!

Contact us to discuss your requirements of 100%Cotton Wax Fabrics. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

If you prefer ready-made clothing, our collection has you covered with a variety of fashion pieces to suit different styles and preferences. Explore here!

And as the holiday season approaches, be sure to check out our Christmas Collection for the perfect holiday gift here.

DISCLAIMER: Please note that moving forward, you can find our complete range of fabrics and pattern books exclusively on our Etsy store. We appreciate your understanding and cooperation during this transition period. Should you have any questions or need assistance, feel free to reach out to our dedicated customer support team. 

The History And Hidden Meanings Of African Wax Print Cloth

African wax print fabric is bold and beautiful and it has a great story behind its origins and how it has developed to be an integral part of West African culture and fashion.

We are often asked where we buy our African print cloth and how the fabric is produced so here’s a juicy little blog post to answer some of those questions!

We source all our own African print fabrics, like these colourful beauties

THE HISTORY OF AFRICAN WAX PRINT CLOTH

Although Africa does have a rich history of textile production the origins of this brightly coloured cloth which is now thought of as synonymous with Africa actually began with batik fabric in Indonesia.

Batik is a hand printed dying technique that uses wax and coloured dyes to create patterns on cotton fabric. You can find out more about Batik in our blog here.

Indonesia was colonised by the Dutch, and around the s merchants saw an opportunity to mass produce and trade batik fabrics. They sought to mechanicalize the labour intensive process of printing and dying so that larger quantities could be produced and sold.

However, it didn’t exactly go to plan as the machine produced cloth wasn’t popular amongst the Indonesian population as it didn’t have the same hand made quality as their own batik.

The Dutch used block printing machines, giant engraved copper rollers and a waxy resin which was printed onto each side of the cotton to resist the dye in certain areas, creating a distinctive pattern.

WHAT IS AFRICAN PRINT FABRIC CALLED?

African wax print fabric is know as ankara; 100% cloth cotton that's used to make clothing, accessories and other products. It was originally produced in Holland, but now produced in Africa.

VLISCO is the most widely known Dutch wax print textile manufacturer and they have dominated the market since the late ’s until today, producing wax print fabrics in Holland and also owning companies such as GTP and ATL which manufacture textiles in Ghana.

You can find out more about VLISCO and African wax print textile production in this short BBC video.

So how did batik print make its way from Indonesia to West Africa?

The Dutch would pass around the vast landmass of Africa on their route between Indonesia and Europe, stopping to refuel, purchase supplies and trade.

They quickly realised that their machine produced wax print cloth was more popular in Sub-Saharan Africa than Indonesia and so they began to adapt their designs and colours to suit the tastes of the African market.

Ghana played a pivotal role in promoting this new cloth because Ghanaians were the first Africans to get in touch with the print, thereby fusing it with African art, culture and fashion before it spread to other West African countries.

Ghana’s traditional hand-woven kente cloth has also inspired many of the colours and patterns of wax print cloth designs which are very popular throughout West Africa today.

We use lots of these bold geometric kente prints for our African print shirts, festival jackets and dungarees! 

THE MEANING BEHIND THE PRINTS ON AFRICAN WAX FABRICS

The designs that make African wax print cloth so interesting are not only colourful and jazzy but they often tell a story or send a message about their wearer.

Many prints in Ghana have local Akan proverbs attached to them, offering a non-verbal form of communication between the person wearing the cloth and the people around them.

According to Dr. Kwesi Yankah, Professor of Linguistics at the University of Ghana, they are used "not just to praise political heroes, to commemorate historical events, and to assert social identities, but also as a form of rhetoric - a channel for the silent projection of argument.” This is especially important amongst Ghanaian women.

The cloth names and meanings have evolved over time, stories often being passed around the market women and their customers, a great selling tactic! 

These are a few examples of the most common fabrics which can be found in Kumasi's Kejetia market. 

Sika Wo Antaban

Money has wings is the translation for this fabric. Money indeed flies where it wants to go. If you don't handle it well, it will fly from you. 

Highlife

This fabric represents the most popular genre of music in Ghana, highlife. This genre is loved by many due to the originality and quality of sound produced by most highlife musicians.

We use this amazing print for our popularHighlife Shirts and trousers.

Nsubra

An Akan word for well.

The tiny dots which are in a spiral form resemble the ripples made in a well after water is fetched from it or when a stone is dropped into its depths.

This is one of the trending fabrics in Ghana and worldwide and it comes in lots of different colours. 

Aniwa

This is the Akan word for Eye. The meaning behind this print is to be careful with your actions. Although people may be silent, they are watching you when you do something wrong! It can also mean that God watches the world. 

We use this watchful eye print for our Easy on the Eye shirts and shorts.

Efie mmosea

This translates to English as gravel because the design in it looks like small stones. The proverbial meaning behind it is that if your sister or a relative hurts you, it is more painful than an outsider.

SOURCING OUR FABRICS

Usually ankara wax print fabrics are sold in 12 yard pieces (full piece) or 6 yards (half piece). This means we have to scour the many fabric isles of Kejetia market, the biggest outdoor market in West Africa, looking for the perfect prints to make Ashanti Empress clothing.

There are hundreds of small shops, mainly owned and run by women, selling more colourful fabric than you could ever imagine. We buy all of our fabric directly from these women.

Often it is difficult to find large quantities of the same fabric which means all of our clothing is limited edition, with only a few items being created in each print.

So now you know, African print cloth isn’t just cool and colourful, its steeped in centuries of history, stories, tradition and meaning!

At Ashanti Empress, we use this beautiful cloth as a means of creating reliable, well-paid employment and training opportunities for the tailors we work with in Ghana, empowering them to grow their own fashion businesses.

You can find out more about how buying Ashanti Empress clothing directly benefits the tailors we work with on our about page.

Are you interested in learning more about Polyester fabric wholesale? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!

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